A visit to Orkney is like opening a well-worn book with pages that still smell of the sea. Time doesn’t move the same way here. You don’t arrive in Orkney just to tick off landmarks. You come to experience stillness, stories, and skies that feel a little closer. Whether it’s your first visit or your third, this five-day itinerary offers a clear path through the islands—no rush, no pressure, just a steady rhythm that suits Orkney well.

Scotland Itinerary: Discover Orkney with This 5-Day Island-Hopping Itinerary

Day 1: Kirkwall – Welcome to Mainland Orkney

Arrive by ferry or flight, but give yourself time to settle. Kirkwall is where most people begin, and it’s more than just a starting point. Walk through the narrow lanes and let your pace adjust. The town is small, but it holds a lot.

Start at St. Magnus Cathedral, a sandstone landmark that's as quiet as it is impressive. There's no need to rush through it. Step inside, pause and look up. Across the street, the Earl’s Palace tells another story—less spiritual, more political—but no less compelling. The ruins are well-preserved, and you’ll probably have them mostly to yourself.

By mid-afternoon, walk down to the harbour. Watch the fishing boats roll slightly with the tide. If the weather allows, sit with a coffee or a warm bowl of soup at one of the nearby cafés. This is the kind of town that teaches you how to slow down.

Where to stay: Book a guesthouse or inn in Kirkwall. Try to stay close to the harbour or cathedral—it keeps everything within walking distance and adds to the experience.

Day 2: West Mainland – Stones, Settlements, and Stories

Today is about the ancient parts of Orkney—the ones older than most civilizations we learn about in school. Rent a car or arrange a tour because public transport won’t get you everywhere on this list.

Start with Skara Brae, a Neolithic village uncovered by a storm in 1850. The stone homes are remarkably intact. You’ll see beds, dressers, and passageways, all older than the pyramids. From there, it’s a short drive to Maeshowe, a burial chamber designed so precisely that light fills it during the winter solstice.

Next are the standing stones. First, Stenness, then the Ring of Brodgar. Don’t just photograph them—walk around them. There’s something grounding about circling these stones on foot.

If you’ve still got time and energy, stop at Yesnaby Cliffs. They’re dramatic, especially when the sea’s rough, but they’re also peaceful in their own way. Good spot for sitting and watching the waves do what they’ve done for thousands of years.

Where to stay: Stay on the west side or head back to Kirkwall. Either works, depending on your next day’s plan.

Day 3: Hoy – Rugged and Remote

Hoy feels different. Even the ferry ride from Houston gives that impression—short, but just enough to draw a line between this island and the others.

First stop: Rackwick Bay. It’s one of those places that photographs can’t explain. There’s a curve of beach, red cliffs, and a wind that always seems to be saying something. From here, most people walk to the Old Man of Hoy, a tall sea stack that rises straight from the ocean. It’s a few hours round-trip, so wear good shoes and pack something to eat.

After the walk, visit the Dwarfie Stane—a carved-out stone tomb tucked into the hillside. It’s quiet here, almost unnervingly so. You might not see another person for an hour, and that’s part of the appeal.

Evenings on Hoy tend to be quiet. That’s the beauty of it. It isn’t about filling the day with plans. It’s about having space.

Where to stay: Book early if you want to stay overnight on Hoy—there are only a few options. If not, catch the ferry back and stay on Mainland Orkney.

Day 4: Rousay – The Egypt of the North

Rousay is a small island with a lot packed into it. The ferry from Tingwall takes less than half an hour, and the road that circles the island makes it easy to explore without doubling back.

What makes Rousay special is how condensed everything feels. In just a few miles, you’ll find Midhowe Cairn, Midhowe Broch, and several other archaeological sites, all hugging the coast. The cairn has a raised walkway inside, so you can look down into the structure and see the layout clearly.

Keep driving, and the road hugs cliffs with views across to other islands. You’ll probably stop more often than planned—there’s something worth looking at every few minutes. Even the small stone walls, the farms, and the wind-blown grass feel like part of the history.

Where to stay: You can stay on Rousay, but most people head back to Mainland Orkney by evening. Either is fine—just check ferry times in advance.

Day 5: South Isles – A Gentle Ending

The South Isles—linked to Mainland Orkney by the Churchill Barriers—offer a softer finish to the trip. These causeways were built during World War II, and you’ll see signs of that history all around.

Begin with the Italian Chapel on Lamb Holm. Built by prisoners of war, it's small but full of character. It's not something you expect to find in Orkney, and that's what makes it stay with you.

From there, drive to South Ronaldsay. Walk along the beach or visit the Tomb of the Eagles, where you can crawl into the chamber yourself. It’s a good place to reflect on what you’ve seen so far.

Keep your afternoon open. Stop when you feel like it. Find a café. Watch the tide. Let the end of the trip come gently.

Where to stay: Kirkwall again, so you’re close to your ferry or flight the next day.

Before You Go

Orkney doesn’t rush you. It doesn’t try to impress with size or spectacle. What it offers is space—to breathe, to think, to walk slowly. The quiet landscapes, the open skies, and the long history all speak in their own way. And if you follow this five-day path, you’ll hear them. Not loudly, but clearly.